Well folks as interesting as Chang Mai was I found it to be very busy and quite smoggy or fumy so we only stayed 1 night before shipping out. The night bazaar was a great place to shop and the food was good. However the Gecko bar was doing 3 large Changs for 119 B so you can guess what happened in Chang Mai. It was probably safer to leave!!
So we caught the Government bus from Chang Mai to Pai (pronounced as "Bye" in English). Was a funny old trip. The bus itself was antique and as we boarded I realised it had wooden chocks under the wheels to stop it rolling away - fantastic! We're taking a trip into the hilly mountainous North in a bus with shoddy brakes, who's idea was this?? 4 hours of rock hard cramped seats, lurching back & forth with each gear change, a ting tong Russian dude who'd obviously plied his brain with too much of something in the past and a pair of monks sitting next to me who eat sweets, drink fizzy and smoke. I was blown away by this, I thought Buddhist monks went without everything - apparently not. To say the road was frightening would be an understatement, so many twists & turns with sheer drops that would have killed us all. Thankfully the driver appeared to know the road like the back of his hand and the halfway stop was a welcome break for drink, food & ciggy. The wooden chock appeared again and now I was sure the handbrake at least was not quite what it should of been. Still, what do you expect for 80B?
So we're still in Pai - been here for a few days and it's a great little town with many people from different countries, faiths & cultures living here. Check out www.allaboutpai.com for some info on this wonderful oasis. First night was as usual an absolute smash up. There were several other travellers on the bus and we met a couple of guys from Grimsby (great lads) who took us on a bit of a bar crawl. All I'll say is that we were in 7-11 eating hot dogs at almost 5am on our way home!
Yesterday we hired some bikes and travelled up into the hills to find some fishing lakes we'd seen advertised. 7 bloody kilometres of uphill cycling interspersed with bouts of listing tentative steps and gasps for breath. Anyway we found the lakes and it is a great place. Run by an English guy called Dave who has been in Thailand for 7 years. His newly built house sits right on the edge of one of the lakes - It really is a smashing place, you need to see it to appreciate it. Anyway, it started to rain as we arrived so we sat out the rain at the side of the lake, chatting to Dave and supping cold beer. It must have rained for a while as somehow there were three beers consumed while sitting chatting and watching the fish. Dave allowed us the privilege of using his loo in the house rather than the ones for the fisherman. His bathroom was like utopia - I've never seen anything quite like it. A squat loo, a western one, a shower, a bespoke bath tub like a swimming pool, even a fish pond and beautiful hand painted scenes on the walls all accessed via a twisting staircase hiding behind a door off the living room.
Reluctantly we paid for our beers and concluded that we'd found the best bar in the world, bid Dave a temporary farewell (fishing Tuesday) and started the 7 kilometre descent back to Pai. Was like being a kid again. Rushing downhill with no hands and worse still, only a front brake. Another lesson learnt, check the bike properly as you're hiring it!
Will probably do another few days here but the visa is ebbing away and we need to allow for travel time to a border crossing which is a great shame as I feel this place needs more investigating. I moved hut today. I'm now closer to the river and have my own bathroom. The place where we're staying is accessed via a bamboo bridge and is just over the river from the main town, opposite the temple that pumps music through it's PA system every morning. Quite a soothing way to wake in the morning assuming you've not consumed too much the night before.
Monday, 31 March 2008
Thursday, 27 March 2008
Chang Mai
Hi all, We had seven nights at Treehouse 2 ( http://www.tree-house.org/ )in total but left there at 8 am yesterday. Swangthaew to the ferry, ferry ride, another swangthaew, 6 hours on bus to BKK, 3 hrs waiting in BKK and then 10 hrs on bus from BKK to Chang mai arriving around 8 am his morning - 24 hrs of solid travel with little sleep - I need a rest!!
Got a great little room here for 150B. May ship out tomorrow heading for Pi - a little further North West, a bit quieter and a bit more like the old hippy trail!
Been around town today, a couple of beers on the way home and it took us 2 hours to find our guesthouse! Had a great stop off though looking for a toilet. We ended up sitting at a table and watching some Thai kids play games for a hour or so with nothing but bottle tops as the pieces and a draughts board built into the table top.
Loads of Temples in Chang Mai - I'll try get some more piccies before I leave.
Treehouse 2
Lee & Lex have both popped off to the hospital as Lee is still not right. Hospital have run tests and apparently he is ok.
Saw my first snake in Thailand today - about a metre long but only skinny - not sure what kind it was or whether it was venomous, gave it a wide berth anyway!
I overheard someone talking about a restaurant in the next bay so Lee, Lex & I trundled off down there accompanied by Keera & Stuart - a young couple from Melbourne that we met here. A fair old walk but we found it! A ramshackle place run by a Thai family. I ordered crab tom yam thinking it would be made with a tinned crabmeat or something similar. Within a few minutes of ordering, one of the Thai men went to the shore and pulled in a large cage that had been floating out in the bay. Two crabs were removed and 15 minutes later I was chomping on them. Fresh unprocessed food and relatively cheap at 190B including a glass of freshly squeezed pineapple shake.
It also happens to be a great fishing spot so we went back. Had a couple of hours fishing which produced Rock Cod, Wrasse, and Angel fish all to Lee's new rod. I still have to put any score on the board.
Saw my first snake in Thailand today - about a metre long but only skinny - not sure what kind it was or whether it was venomous, gave it a wide berth anyway!
I overheard someone talking about a restaurant in the next bay so Lee, Lex & I trundled off down there accompanied by Keera & Stuart - a young couple from Melbourne that we met here. A fair old walk but we found it! A ramshackle place run by a Thai family. I ordered crab tom yam thinking it would be made with a tinned crabmeat or something similar. Within a few minutes of ordering, one of the Thai men went to the shore and pulled in a large cage that had been floating out in the bay. Two crabs were removed and 15 minutes later I was chomping on them. Fresh unprocessed food and relatively cheap at 190B including a glass of freshly squeezed pineapple shake.
It also happens to be a great fishing spot so we went back. Had a couple of hours fishing which produced Rock Cod, Wrasse, and Angel fish all to Lee's new rod. I still have to put any score on the board.
Mysterious visit
We had 5 nights at Treehouse until Lee & Lex were well enough to move to Treehouse 2 which is at the southern end of the island on long beach - transfer by open back truck (swangthaew) 1.5 hrs, 100B. This place is awesome. The huts are similar to those at Treehouse 1 but newer & roomier. Power supply is only available between 6pm & 1am. We are the only resort on this horseshoe shaped bay - in fact there's nothing for kilometres either way. No booming stereos, traffic, internet, atm's - nothing but peace & tranquility. My hut sits back from the beach a little, raised on stilts by 8-10 feet and accessed by a precarious ladder made of logs. I have a great view of the beach and the turquoise sea that is shallow & warm. 250B a night.
My first night here was eventful to say the least. It started with my falling out of my hammock flat on my back which was more embarrassing than painful, although I was stiff with the sciatica when I awoke the following morning.
I had set the Mozi net up before I climbed in to bed - day pack with valuable items was on the bed, torch however was on the shelf outside the mozi net.
I awoke at some early hour to the sound of something bashing about & growling in my hut. The noise was coming corner where my torch was sitting on the shelf - lesson learnt! Torch will in future be under my pillow. So I tried to peer through the mesh of the mozi net in the dark to no avail. I rummaged through my day pack and found my camera, turned it on and clicked in the direction of the noise. The flash didn't illuminate anything much and the subsequent picture only showed the mesh of the mozi net - I was still in the dark! So I used the screen of the camera as a torch and found just enough light to see what appeared to be a feline like creature playing footy with my possessions. It circled the perimeter of my mozi net several times before settling down to eat what appeared to be a mouse. I returned the camera to it's case and settled down to try and get back to sleep with just the sound of the creature devouring it's meal disturbing the silence. As I drifted off I'm sure I heard my visitor depart via the window and when I awoke, I was alone!
My first night here was eventful to say the least. It started with my falling out of my hammock flat on my back which was more embarrassing than painful, although I was stiff with the sciatica when I awoke the following morning.
I had set the Mozi net up before I climbed in to bed - day pack with valuable items was on the bed, torch however was on the shelf outside the mozi net.
I awoke at some early hour to the sound of something bashing about & growling in my hut. The noise was coming corner where my torch was sitting on the shelf - lesson learnt! Torch will in future be under my pillow. So I tried to peer through the mesh of the mozi net in the dark to no avail. I rummaged through my day pack and found my camera, turned it on and clicked in the direction of the noise. The flash didn't illuminate anything much and the subsequent picture only showed the mesh of the mozi net - I was still in the dark! So I used the screen of the camera as a torch and found just enough light to see what appeared to be a feline like creature playing footy with my possessions. It circled the perimeter of my mozi net several times before settling down to eat what appeared to be a mouse. I returned the camera to it's case and settled down to try and get back to sleep with just the sound of the creature devouring it's meal disturbing the silence. As I drifted off I'm sure I heard my visitor depart via the window and when I awoke, I was alone!
Monday, 17 March 2008
Near death experience
Maybe it wasn't quite that bad but it could have been really nasty. Lee went for a shower the other night after dark which isn't a good idea out here - the mozzies are a lot busier and other wildlife ventures out as well. Next thing I know, I'm being summonsed to the shower block to look at a 9 inch long Centipede in the pool. Lee had nearly scooped it up and poured it over his head. Turns out that this type of Centipede can kill you from one bite. Even the Thais were scared of it although once they had it safely stored in a water bottle, said they were going to eat it as it will make them strong. I thought they were joking but having seen the multitude of critters available deep fried on the Ko San maybe they were telling the truth.
Still at Treehouse. Lee & Lex both have upset stomachs so moving elsewhere is not ideal at the mo. May move further down the island in the next few days. Found out there's a place that does Elephant trekking at the far end of the island. May give that a go although I seem to still be in lazy mode, slumped in hammocks, drinking or eating. Last nights grub was Red Snapper, night before was Barracuda steak which was great. Not so great was the bottle of Sang Som between the three of us followed by a Sang Som tropical bucket - sore head yesterday!
Oz left us yesterday. He's meeting a friend in BKK who is flying in from Bali. They are then travelling down South to Ko Phang nan for the full moon party. He heads back to Australia early April for his connecting flight back to Brazil. Chances are we won't catch him up as we'll probably go North before we head down South. So Oz, if you're reading, take care & be safe. Was great to meet you.
Still at Treehouse. Lee & Lex both have upset stomachs so moving elsewhere is not ideal at the mo. May move further down the island in the next few days. Found out there's a place that does Elephant trekking at the far end of the island. May give that a go although I seem to still be in lazy mode, slumped in hammocks, drinking or eating. Last nights grub was Red Snapper, night before was Barracuda steak which was great. Not so great was the bottle of Sang Som between the three of us followed by a Sang Som tropical bucket - sore head yesterday!
Oz left us yesterday. He's meeting a friend in BKK who is flying in from Bali. They are then travelling down South to Ko Phang nan for the full moon party. He heads back to Australia early April for his connecting flight back to Brazil. Chances are we won't catch him up as we'll probably go North before we head down South. So Oz, if you're reading, take care & be safe. Was great to meet you.
Saturday, 15 March 2008
Toilet facilities
We had been lucky really with the places we'd stayed on route to Koh Chang as they all had western style toilets & showers in the rooms.
Treehouse is different! (our home for now - straw huts). There are several toilet/shower blocks dotted around the complex. Shower is not really an accurate description though - they are called Mandi which consists of a big pool of cold water and a bowl. You stand outside the pool on a concrete floor and using the bowl, scoop up the cold water and douse yourself. The first bowl that goes over your head causes a couple of small items that usually reside below the waist to promptly travel North! You must not under any circumstances contaminate the pool as the next person in will be tipping that water over themselves. It is a pretty cool way to wash. Maybe I should take some piccies as it's tough to describe the experience.
Toilets are another story - they are the squat type, again a bowl is used to scoop up water and flush. Paper can't be flushed, goes into a bin which is like it was in Cyprus so that wasn't too much of a shock. Well not as much as having to Squat for a poo! Not a bad way to go either - my aim is improving daily.
Great food agin last night. Thai red curry, boiled rice and roti bread, large bottle Chang and 20 smokes all for 230B. Jeepers, I just realised that was only four quid for the lot! I think I'll stay here for a few days.
Treehouse is different! (our home for now - straw huts). There are several toilet/shower blocks dotted around the complex. Shower is not really an accurate description though - they are called Mandi which consists of a big pool of cold water and a bowl. You stand outside the pool on a concrete floor and using the bowl, scoop up the cold water and douse yourself. The first bowl that goes over your head causes a couple of small items that usually reside below the waist to promptly travel North! You must not under any circumstances contaminate the pool as the next person in will be tipping that water over themselves. It is a pretty cool way to wash. Maybe I should take some piccies as it's tough to describe the experience.
Toilets are another story - they are the squat type, again a bowl is used to scoop up water and flush. Paper can't be flushed, goes into a bin which is like it was in Cyprus so that wasn't too much of a shock. Well not as much as having to Squat for a poo! Not a bad way to go either - my aim is improving daily.
Great food agin last night. Thai red curry, boiled rice and roti bread, large bottle Chang and 20 smokes all for 230B. Jeepers, I just realised that was only four quid for the lot! I think I'll stay here for a few days.
At last!
Before I really get going I'll just point out that there's 59 baht to the British pound - it'll make it easier for you to work things out later.
It's been a real long slog to get here but I'm now finally sitting on lonely beach, Koh Chang, Thailand. I have a straw hut right on the sea for 280 Baht (B) a night (4.60 GBP). I got home last night and at high tide the water is about 6 feet from the hut. Fortunately I'm on stilts!
I left the south coast of the UK on Tuesday afternoon to start the journey. Two and a half hours on the train to airport, 3 hrs in the airport, 11.5 hrs on the plane, arriving at new airport in BKK. We breezed through the nothing to declare channel and were issued 30 day visas for free then went to look for a taxi. I went off to the loo and upon my return found Lee & Lexie had befriended a lost looking young Brazilian lad called Osmar who was looking to share a taxi. That's where it all started!
We travelled by taxi to the Khao San rd and started looking for somewhere to stay - it was now almost 6pm on Wednesday so our options were limited! The 'New my house guest house' was where we ended up but they had no single rooms. Not a problem for Lee & Lex, but for me - sharing a twin room with a guy I've known for just two hours was a little worrying. We split the 350 B cost down the middle so my nights sleep in BKK was 3 pounds.
We all went out for food & beer. Pad Thai noodles from street hawker 25B if you had egg with it, 20B without! 640ml bottle Chang beer 50-80B depending on where you are. On the way back to guest house we stumbled into a bay elephant being walked around the streets of BKK - crazy, or ting tong as the Thais say.
So we left BKK on on Thursday: taxi to bus terminal 40B each. Air conditioned government run coach form BKK to Trat 250B each and 5 hours in the seat - they gave us complimentary water & Jammie dodgers too! Trat bus terminal to 'Pop guest house' by open backed truck, 40B each. Only room available was one with two double beds in it but for 100B each for the night who can complain? Authentic Thai green curry with several bottles of Chang, an amusing encounter with an Irishman called Paul, some drunken banter with a bunch of Thai fellas, 3am to bed and Lee hogging the fan all night.
7.30am awake, shower, breakfast and 9.20am depart for transfer by truck to ferry terminal - 40B. Open return ferry ticket to Koh Chang 140B. Open back truck from ferry to Lonely beach which is on the other side of the island, 80B per person. Now it's time to chill, soak up some sun (around 30 degrees here), drink more Chang and eat more of the delicious Thai food. My hut - yes mine (we have three between us) has a shutter window that opens out and looks straight out over the sea. Hammock is strung across the porch and I have a double bed all to myself. It is beautiful here - worth the four days of travelling to get here!
It's been a real long slog to get here but I'm now finally sitting on lonely beach, Koh Chang, Thailand. I have a straw hut right on the sea for 280 Baht (B) a night (4.60 GBP). I got home last night and at high tide the water is about 6 feet from the hut. Fortunately I'm on stilts!
I left the south coast of the UK on Tuesday afternoon to start the journey. Two and a half hours on the train to airport, 3 hrs in the airport, 11.5 hrs on the plane, arriving at new airport in BKK. We breezed through the nothing to declare channel and were issued 30 day visas for free then went to look for a taxi. I went off to the loo and upon my return found Lee & Lexie had befriended a lost looking young Brazilian lad called Osmar who was looking to share a taxi. That's where it all started!
We travelled by taxi to the Khao San rd and started looking for somewhere to stay - it was now almost 6pm on Wednesday so our options were limited! The 'New my house guest house' was where we ended up but they had no single rooms. Not a problem for Lee & Lex, but for me - sharing a twin room with a guy I've known for just two hours was a little worrying. We split the 350 B cost down the middle so my nights sleep in BKK was 3 pounds.
We all went out for food & beer. Pad Thai noodles from street hawker 25B if you had egg with it, 20B without! 640ml bottle Chang beer 50-80B depending on where you are. On the way back to guest house we stumbled into a bay elephant being walked around the streets of BKK - crazy, or ting tong as the Thais say.
So we left BKK on on Thursday: taxi to bus terminal 40B each. Air conditioned government run coach form BKK to Trat 250B each and 5 hours in the seat - they gave us complimentary water & Jammie dodgers too! Trat bus terminal to 'Pop guest house' by open backed truck, 40B each. Only room available was one with two double beds in it but for 100B each for the night who can complain? Authentic Thai green curry with several bottles of Chang, an amusing encounter with an Irishman called Paul, some drunken banter with a bunch of Thai fellas, 3am to bed and Lee hogging the fan all night.
7.30am awake, shower, breakfast and 9.20am depart for transfer by truck to ferry terminal - 40B. Open return ferry ticket to Koh Chang 140B. Open back truck from ferry to Lonely beach which is on the other side of the island, 80B per person. Now it's time to chill, soak up some sun (around 30 degrees here), drink more Chang and eat more of the delicious Thai food. My hut - yes mine (we have three between us) has a shutter window that opens out and looks straight out over the sea. Hammock is strung across the porch and I have a double bed all to myself. It is beautiful here - worth the four days of travelling to get here!
Tuesday, 11 March 2008
Up, up & away
Woohoo! I'm just a few hours away from starting the adventure. Will be jumping on the train from the south coast to the airport shortly. Flight appears to be ok - let's hope the wind stays mild.
Hardly slept a wink last night and it's beginning to catch up with me now. Got 11 hrs or so on the plane though so I'll catch a few zzz's on there.
To those of you that I didn't manage to catch up with, sorry. Take care of yourselves and I'll see you when you're older. Those of you that are indifferent, blahdy blah, big raspberry. And those of you that were upset or even shed a tear, i'm gonna miss you too! I love you all xx
Hardly slept a wink last night and it's beginning to catch up with me now. Got 11 hrs or so on the plane though so I'll catch a few zzz's on there.
To those of you that I didn't manage to catch up with, sorry. Take care of yourselves and I'll see you when you're older. Those of you that are indifferent, blahdy blah, big raspberry. And those of you that were upset or even shed a tear, i'm gonna miss you too! I love you all xx
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